According to Ali Paris Fashion Week

ACCORDING TO ALI

Dispatches from Paris
Fashion Week

Ali Pew Headshot

Ali Pew’s post as goop fashion director sends her packing. A lot. There are now more fashion weeks than we can count, and photo shoots won’t style themselves. This is our chance to live vicariously.

It’s easy for fashion collections and seasons to blend into one another over time—but not this year and not this season. The 2019 fall ready-to-wear collections will forever be known as Karl Lagerfeld’s last. When the eighty-five-year-old designer passed away in February, fashion lost its patriarch and the world lost a visionary. Lagerfeld was synonymous with Chanel, and to a lesser degree Fendi (a quieter mark, yet still iconic). And long before that, he made a feminine and fluid imprint at Chloé…for a quarter of a century.

It’s almost impossible to look anywhere in fashion without seeing Kaiser Karl’s influence. Whether it’s Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé or Hedi Slimane at Celine, the new generation of marquee designers is carrying on a craft that Lagerfeld himself built. The fashion world may have lost one of its greatest artists last month, but in these new designers, the tenets Lagerfeld stood for—beauty, grace, timelessness—are made immortal.

RUNWAY REPORT

I’d describe the overall theme as old meets new, classic meets contemporary, with heritage brands throwing it back to their roots in the slickest way. Another common thread for fall 2019: a focus on full looks, rather than broken-up separates. The movement is toward a more sophisticated, polished approach to dressing. But of course, to each her own: Chloé skewed bohemian with layered jewelry; many OG French labels stayed low-key.

    Paris Fashion Week

  1. Stella Mccartney Paris Fashion Week

    STELLA MCCARTNEY
  2. Hermes Paris Fashion Week

    HERMÈS
  3. Chloe Paris Fashion Week

    Chloé
  4. Sacai

    SACAI
  5. PACO RABANNE Paris Fashion Week

    PACO RABANNE
  6. Givenchy Paris Fashion Week

    Givenchy

PACKING LIST


  1. Chloe Mini Bag
    Chloe Mini Bag

    CHLOÉ bag

    Chloé, $990


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  2. Raey Split Back Cotton Trench Coat
    Raey Split Back Cotton Trench Coat

    RAEY trench coat

    Matches Fashion, $476


  3. Lowercase Testament Duke Smoke Grey Sunglasses
    Lowercase Testament Duke Smoke Grey Sunglasses

    LOWERCASE sunglasses

    Lowercase, $325


  4. Lizzie Mandler Knife Edge Flat Link Bracelet with Diamonds
    Lizzie Mandler Knife Edge Flat Link Bracelet with Diamonds

    LIZZIE MANDLER bracelet

    goop, $5,450


  5. GOOP BY JUICE BEAUTY discovery set
    GOOP BY JUICE BEAUTY discovery set

    GOOP BY JUICE BEAUTY
    discovery set


    goop, $125


  6. Michelle Fantaci Echo iii Yellow Gold Hoops
    Michelle Fantaci Echo iii Yellow Gold Hoops

    MICHELLE FANTACI hoops

    goop, $2,250


  7. Nili Lotan Ralphie Turtleneck Cashmere Sweater
    Nili Lotan Ralphie Turtleneck Cashmere Sweater

    NILI LOTAN sweater

    goop, $450


  8. G. Label Kalinsky Bubble Sleeve Blouse
    G. Label Kalinsky Bubble Sleeve Blouse

    G. LABEL Kalinsky Bubble-
    Sleeve Blouse


    goop, $375


  9. Marni A-Line Poplin Skirt
    Marni A-Line Poplin Skirt

    MARNI skirt

    goop, $890


  10. Khaite Raquel Cropped Flare Jeans
    Khaite Raquel Cropped Flare Jeans

    KHAITE jeans

    goop, $340



  11. TUMI packing case

    Tumi, $1,275


  12. Chloe Sneakers
    Chloe Sneakers

    CHLOÉ sneakers

    Chloé, $620


  13. Chloe Boots
    Chloe Boots

    CHLOÉ boots

    Chloé, $1,250

TEA TIME

The Shangri-La hotel—with its views of the Eiffel Tower; its lavish, stuccoed columns in the lobby; its grand bedrooms; and its attentive atmosphere—truly lives up to its name. But even in all that grandeur and even thousands of miles away from my own bedroom, I still I felt at home. That, and I’m a sucker for a quality cup of tea. This place is my haven. The vegan take on traditional high tea is excellent; they serve just about every spice you can find. Not too filling, the quartered ratatouille sandwiches were a cute touch, while they lasted. Wrap up a spongy Black Forest cake or a crumbly peanut butter cookie to go like I did. One last thing: The Japanese matcha, the Indian Darjeeling, and the black tea with a hint of fig and a touch of malt all hit the après-midi spot.

Shangri-La Tea Paris France
Shangri-La Tea Paris France

SPA MOMENT

One of the best things about Paris is the endless pedestrian perks (bridges, monuments, boutiques). But for me, time on the massage table is equally precious. This trip, I dipped into the Peninsula for the Cha Ling treatment. Part rubdown, part toasty stone-work, it’s next-level. It works out extra kinks and subtly detoxifies. I strolled out feeling relaxed and surprisingly energized.

Alexander Calder and Picasso Marais

BEST OF TWO WORLDS

If I can turn a Marais shopping detour into a cultural excursion, I’m a happy girl. If I can make it a seamless experience, I’m even happier. I ducked into the Alexander Calder and Picasso exhibition for an hour, which didn’t throw off any of the day’s logistics—like a bigger Louvre or Musée d’Orsay endeavor.

BISTRO TAB

Parisian cuisine is always a close second to the shows (or sometimes it comes first, to be honest). Bambou is fantastic Thai, with a bonus: eye candy in the form of richly layered, whimsical interiors. I never miss it. After a stopover at Le Bon Marché, the Brasserie at the Lutetia makes for a healthy lunch spot. The local ingredients could rival any LA farmers’ market. The Ritz makes catching up with colleagues over coffee (and desserts) feel extra decadent. Before the week’s over, I indulge at Le Gabriel for the world-class service and classic Parisian setting. You can’t go wrong.

  1. BAMBOU

    Bambou Restaurant Paris France

  2. THE RITZ

    The Ritz Restaurant Paris France

  3. LE GABRIEL
    AT LA RESERVE

    Le Gabriel at La Reserve Restaurant Paris France

  4. Brasserie Lutetia

    Brasserie Lutetia Paris France

  5. Le Rigmarole

    Le Rigmarole Paris France

RETAIL THERAPY

Compagnie Francaise des Poivres & des Epices Paris France

COMPAGNIE FRANÇAISE
DES POIVRES & DES ÉPICES

My kind of aromatherapy: a sensory escape tucked into the Place de Furstenberg. All the big c’s from the Orient—clove, cardamom, cumin—are right here, only a stone’s throw from Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

Oh my Cream Beauty French Pharmacy

OH MY CREAM BEAUTY

A French pharmacy on steroids. I stuff my suitcase with any of the oils or lotions from Susanne Kaufmann and more.

Antoinette Poisson

ANTOINETTE POISSON

I first discovered these hand-painted prints and etchings at the top level of LBM. Pastel drawings, wallpapers, and charming home accessories, like antique-looking boxes—I’ll take one for the office, bedroom, guest bath, and gifts along the way. I may need another suitcase, come to think of it.

SWEAT OR SWIM


  1. Ursa Major Essential Face Wipes
    Ursa Major Essential Face Wipes

    URSA MAJOR face wipes

    goop, $24



  2. SCHMIDT’S deodorant

    goop, $10


  3. Eres Les Essentiels Arnaque Swimsuit
    Eres Les Essentiels Arnaque Swimsuit

    ERES swimsuit

    Net-a-Porter, $435


  4. G. SPORT Mock-Neck Crop Top
    G. SPORT Mock-Neck Crop Top

    G. SPORT Mock-Neck Crop Top

    goop, $95


  5. The Upside Paneled Matte Yoga Pants
    The Upside Paneled Matte Yoga Pants

    THE UPSIDE leggings

    goop, $109


  6. Adidas by Stella McCartney Ultraboost S Mesh Colorblock Sneakers
    Adidas by Stella McCartney Ultraboost S Mesh Colorblock Sneakers

    ADIDAS BY STELLA
    MCCARTNEY sneakers


    goop, $230

Lutetia Pool Paris

TAKE THE PLUNGE

The perfect antidote to the flurry of shows and all the constant running around: twenty minutes in the Lutetia pool (and I like to think it balances out all the frites). The pool, with its serene interiors and stunning Parisian architecture, lulls me into a Zen-like state. It’s also a great place to stay for working out—and with a full hammam and a cold-water plunge, it’s the whole package.

LIGHTS OUT


  1. GOOP WELLNESS knock me out
    GOOP WELLNESS knock me out

    GOOP WELLNESS
    knock me out


    goop, $30


  2. ASCENO X GOOP eye mask
    ASCENO X GOOP eye mask

    ASCENO X GOOP eye mask

    goop, $70


  3. ASCENO top
    ASCENO top

    ASCENO top

    goop, $295


  4. Asceno Striped PJ Bottom
    Asceno Striped PJ Bottom

    ASCENO bottom

    goop, $275